Wildlife Viewing in Northern California

Check out the latest edition or "Rick's Tips," Blue Heron's free newsletter of fun things to do in the Bay Area, to learn more about viewing wildlife in Northern California.  You can see the newsletter by clicking here.  Subscribe to the newsletter by sending a request to Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

If you would like to take a private tour in Northern California to see some of the wildlife, please contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel by calling (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mailing Rick@BlueHeronTours.com. 

2010 Looks Like a Good Year for Art Lovers

This year is shaping up as a good year for viewing interesting exhibits at San Francisco's major museums.  On February 12, the Asian Art Museum opens "Shanghai," an exhibit focusing on the art of this great city over the past century.  Running through September 5, this exhibition is part of San Francisco's effort this year to celebrate our sister city, which will host a World Expo this year.  "Shanghai" features paintings, furniture, revolutionary posters, movie clips, and other works of art.

The de Young Museum is hosting three major exhibitions this year.  The Tutankhamun exhibition, which opened last summer and which I wrote about at the time, runs through March 28.  The Musée d'Orsay in Paris will be undergoing major renovations.  As a result, some of its major works will be on tour.  The de Young will be hosting two exhibitions featuring works from the d'Orsay.  The first, "Birth of Impressionism, Masterpieces from the Musée d’Orsay," runs from May 22 through September 6.  This show will feature over 100 pre and early Impressionistic works from the mid-19th century.  

Then, from September 25 through January 18, the de Young will host "Van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne and Beyond: Post-Impressionist Masterpieces from the Musée d’Orsay."  This exhibit will display over 120 of the museum's late Impressionist paintings.

Concurrently with "Birth of Impressionism," the Legion of Honor will show "Paris: City of Light," which will feature 150 Impressionistic works from the Fine Arts Museums' collection as well as from some private collections.

Lastly, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is celebrating its 75th anniversary and will show six exhibitions featuring works from its collection.

If you're an art lover, you'll have much to choose from this year.  And don't forget some of our smaller museums and galleries.

Great Peruvian Food by the Bay

San Francisco may have more Peruvian restaurants per capita than any city outside of Peru.  Last September, I wrote about Limón Rotisserie, a casual offshoot of Limón, the first upscale Peruvian place in San Francisco.  This past weekend, I finally ate at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, which opened over a year ago at Pier 1 1/2 on The Embarcadero north of the Ferry Building.  La Mar is the first U.S. effort from Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio.  (He also has restaurants in Lima, Mexico City, Santiago, São Paulo, and Panama City.)

When you walk into the space, you are immediately struck by the size, wondering if the restaurant will be unbearably noisy and if the kitchen can successfully service so many tables.  While La Mar is noisy, I've been to far louder restaurants in San Francisco.  The kitchen does a great job of turning out small and large plates of terrific seafood.  While we were still looking over the menu, we were treated to chips made from white potato, sweet potato, and plantain accompanied by 4 dipping sauces.

Being big ceviche fans, we went for the tasting of 4 cebiches, all of which were terrific.  Just watch out for the peppers.  They pack a punch.  Until this meal, we'd never heard of causas: whipped potatoes and yellow garlic topped with seafood and/or vegetables.  Again we went for the sampler of 4 and loved each one.  We also tried the sampler of 4 empanadas.  While tasty, these were the least interesting of the small plates.

We shared two main courses among us, a seafood saltado and the tuna dish.  The saltado consisted of a variety of stir fried seafood and vegetables topped with French fries and served with rice.  The tuna was seared, topped with a sesame sauce and served over mashed purple potatoes.  Both were delicious.

Being gluttons, we also shared two desserts.  The dulce de leche mousse was too sweet for any of us but the buñuelos de chocolate caliente, warm beignets filled with warm chocolate sauce, were terrific.

We stuck to wine with our meal and were able to select from a good list of California, South American, and Spanish wines.  The cocktail list featured drinks with pisco, a grape liqueur that first arrived in San Francisco in the 19th century.

If you like seafood and interesting spices and preparations, then I highly recommend you visit.  I'll go back when the weather warms up so I can dine outside on the terrace overlooking San Francisco Bay.

Sea Lion Update

Last month I wrote about the sea lions that disappeared from Pier 39.  It now appears that the sea lions that frequented San Francisco Bay and the waters off Northern California went north to the Oregon shores in search of food.  Rangers in Oregon parks are reporting larger numbers of California Sea Lions off their shores.  It's possible that herring, anchovies, sardines, and other fish enjoyed by the sea lions are further north than usual due to the El Niño effect.  We'll just have to wait to see if they return to Pier 39 later in the year.

Cozy French Restaurant

I frequently get asked about good French restaurants in San Francisco.  There are well known, upscale French restaurants where you can easily spend over $150/person for dinner.  However, when I think of the type of neighborhood bistro that I've enjoyed in France, I immediately think of my neighborhood French restaurant, Le P'tit Laurent.

The restaurant is located in the Glen Park neighborhood of San Francisco, just one block from Glen Park BART.  Visitors staying near Union Square can take BART from Powell or Montgomery Street to the Glen Park station and walk one block north on Diamond Street.  The ride is less than 15 minutes each way and currently costs $3.50 round-trip.

The owner, Laurent Legendre, is originally from Paris.  When we visited the restaurant shortly after it opened, Laurent recognized us as soon as we walked in.  How, I don't know, as we only visited his old restaurant, Clementine, a few times and he had left it a few years ago.

The menu contains French classics such as onion soup, escargot, boeuf Bourguignon, coquilles Saint-Jacques, and cassoulet.  Prices are reasonable and, from Monday through Thursday, there is a three-course, prix-fixed neighborhood menu for $21/person.  The wine list contains reasonably priced French and Californian wines.

Le P'tit Laurent is a real neighborhood place frequented mainly by locals.  It's a great place for visitors as they get to see a part of San Francisco they normally would not visit and eat some good French food at a reasonable price.

Sea Lions Disappear from Pier 39

After hanging out at Pier 39 for 20 years, the sea lions disappeared in late November.  There were over 900 sea lions at the Pier in early November.  By the end of the month only a few were seen swimming in the nearby water.  Scientists do not know why the sea lions suddenly disappeared but speculate they may have headed south in search of food.   Whether they will ever return is a matter of speculation.  You can see if the animals are back by visiting Pier 39's website and viewing the sea lion cam.

I hope everyone has a happy new year.  If your plans call for a visit to San Francisco in 2010, please feel free to contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel for a private tour of San Francisco, wine country, Muir Woods & Sausalito, Monterey & Carmel, Yosemite, the California coast, and other destinations in San Francisco.  I can be reached at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com. 

Things to Do on Christmas Day in San Francisco

At this time last year I wrote about things to do on Christmas day.  Here's an updated version of that post.

Visitors to San Francisco during the holiday season often wonder what to do on Christmas Day. Many attractions are closed, but there's still much to do if you're not unwrapping presents with your family.

Walk across the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco's number 1 tourist attraction. The walkway is open from sunrise to sunset.

See Lombard Street, the "Crookedest Street in the World." Visitors flock to Lombard Street to see its gardens and curves. Don't forget that two blocks away is the steepest street in San Francisco - Filbert Street.

Explore Muir Woods, where you can see the Coastal Redwoods - the tallest trees in the world. The park is located about 40 minutes north of San Francisco, across the Golden Gate Bridge.

Visit The Contemporary Jewish Museum where admission is free on Christmas Day. Current exhibits include "There's a Mystery There:  Sendak on Sendak," "Jews on Vinyl," and "As it is Written: Project 304,805." The museum will be open from 11:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. on Christmas Day.

Ride the cable cars. Travel over Nob Hill on America's first moving National Historic Landmark.

Eat. Many restaurants are open on Christmas Day, including a good number in Chinatown.

Take in a movie. Most movie theaters open around noon. If you are planning to go late in the afternoon or early in the evening, be prepared for crowds.

As you can see, there are a number of things to do on Christmas Day. So there's no need to spend the day in your hotel room.

Happy Holidays from Rick at Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel.

Coffee in San Francisco

San Francisco has a rich coffee history going back to the Gold Rush and the founding of Folgers Coffee in 1859 and Hills Brothers in1878. These companies are now parts of large corporations with their connections to San Francisco only a distant memory. Nevertheless, we take our coffee pretty seriously in San Francisco. While there seems to be a Starbucks on every corner, try some of our local purveyors during your visit to the city.

Peet's Coffee was founded by Alfred Peet in 1966 in Berkeley. Peet was born in the Netherlands and was appalled by the quality of American coffee. When he opened his store, he took coffee to a new level. Today, Peet's is a small chain with locations throughout California and a few other states. You can't walk too far in San Francisco without running into a Peet's.

North Beach is home to many coffee houses where you can get excellent espresso drinks. Two of my favorites are Caffe Roma, 526 Columbus Ave. and Caffe Trieste, 601 Trieste. If you are in the market for coffee beans, check out Graffeo Coffee, 735 Columbus Avenue.

Blue Bottle Coffee is known for its small lots of organic coffee. Espresso drinks and individually dripped cups of coffee are available at the cafe at 66 Mint Street (near Fifth and Mission Streets) and the small kiosk at 315 Linden Street in Hayes Valley.

Philz Coffee offers more than 20 varieties of individually dripped cups of coffee. Philz has four locations in San Francisco: the original 3101 Folsom (@ 24th St. in the Mission District), 201 Berry Street (near AT&T Park), 4023 18th St. (Castro District), and 748 Van Ness Avenue (Civic Center)

Ritual Coffee Roasters is just four years old but offers its hand roasted coffee at 1026 Valencia St. (Mission District) and 1634 Jerrold Avenue (Bayview District). There are also independent cafes that serve Ritual's coffee. To find them, visit Ritual's website.

Of course, there are many more coffee roasters in San Francisco. During one of your strolls through the city, stop and sample one of our local brews. If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that visits some of our local coffee shops, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or by clicking here.

Best Restaurants in San Francisco - 2009/2010

The new "Zagat 2010 Bay Area Restaurants" and "The Michelin Guide San Francisco, Bay Area, and Wine Country Restaurants 2010" were recently released. So it's time for Blue Heron's annual summary of the critics' choices for the best restaurants in San Francisco and the Bay Area.

Zagat's list of the five most popular restaurants includes Gary Danko, Boulevard, The French Laundry (Yountville, Napa Valley), The Slanted Door, and Chez Panisse (Berkeley). The top rated for food are Gary Danko, Cyrus (Healdsburg), and The French Laundry with 29 points. Kiss Seafood, Acquerello, La Folie, Masa's, Erna's Elderberry House (Oakhurst, south of Yosemite National Park), Kaygetsu (Menlo Park), Chez Panisse, Sushi Ran (Sausalito), and Coi received 28 points. All restaurants are in San Francisco unless otherwise noted.

Once again, Michelin awarded three stars to only one restaurant in the Bay Area: the French Laundry in Yountville in the Napa Valley. Two stars were awarded to Cyrus in Healdsburg, Coi in San Francisco, Manresa in Los Gatos, and the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena in the Napa Valley. Former two-star restaurants Aqua and Michael Mina lost two and one stars respectively. Thirty-four restaurants in the Bay Area received one star.

The "San Francisco Chronicle" awards four stars to the top restaurants. Current recipients are Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Cyrus in Healdsburg, Manresa in Los Gatos, the French Laundry in Yountville, and Coi, La Folie, Michael Mina, and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco.

While I have not dined at all of these restaurants, I did return to Gary Danko a few months ago and it remains my favorite in San Francisco.

Come to San Francisco and you'll have a chance to pick your favorite. Be sure to make your reservations well in advance as these top restaurants frequently well in advance. If you wait until the last minute, you may not be able to get a table or may have to dine at 5:30 or 10:00 p.m.

One Alley - Two Restaurants

Last post I wrote about Belden Place, a block-long alley with eight restaurants. Less than a block away from Belden Place is Claude Lane. This block-long alley is just west of Kearny running between Bush and Sutter.

Café Claude and Gitane not only share the alley, but also have the same owners as well as both indoor and outdoor dining. Café Claude serves French cuisine and feels like a Parisian cafe. Many French classics such as salade Niçoise and coq au van grace the menu. Café Claude has live jazz from 7:30 - 10:30 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. The restaurant is open for dinner nightly and for lunch daily except Sunday. Café Claude features a happy hour from 4:00 until 6:00 p.m from Monday through Saturday.

Gitane serves food with influences from the Basque region of Spain and France and has a more modern feel to it. Here you can dine on chicken or vegetable tajine, paella, and other tasty dishes. It's easy to make a meal by sampling a couple of appetizers. Gitane is open for dinner from Tuesday through Saturday. You can dine until midnight or hang out at the bar until 1:00 a.m.

If you're staying near Union Square, atop Nob Hill, or in the Financial District, both Claude Lane and Belden Place are a short walk from your hotel.

One Alley - Eight Restaurants

Many of my guests prefer not to make advance reservations for dinner and can't decide what type of food they want. I usually suggest they visit Belden Place, a block-long alley, not far from Union Square and Nob Hill, that is home to eight restaurants. Here you can find restaurants serving American, French, Italian, French seafood, Italian seafood, Mediterranean, and Catalan food. Most of the restaurants feature both indoor and outdoor dining. Don't worry too much about the cold as the alley blocks the wind and heat-lamps keep the tables warm.

As you walk down the alley, friendly staff will be quick to show you her/his restaurant's menu and encourage you to have a seat. Take your time and check out the menus of the restaurants that most interest you. My favorite has long been Plouf as I love mussels and fries. I also have had good meals at Brindisi, B44, and Taverna. I have not yet eaten at Trademark, which is relatively new. Most of the restaurants are open for lunch from Monday through Friday and for dinner from Monday through Saturday. Most are closed are Sunday. For each restaurant's hours, visit Belden Place's website. Belden Place runs between Bush and Pine Streets, just east of Kearny Street.

Peruvian Food in the Mission District

Peruvian food is quite popular in San Francisco and is easily found in San Francisco's Mission District. I fell in love with Peruvian food when I learned that French fries on rice is a staple. A true delight for a lover of carbohydrates.

A good, casual spot for lunch or dinner is Limón Rotisserie, sister restaurant to the more upscale Limón Restaurant. Here you can dine on an array of hold and cold small plates or barbecue chicken. We recently lunched here and had terrific ceviche, a nice green salad, lomito (a traditional stir-fry of steak, onions, peppers, and other spices that is served with fries), and tacu-tacu (Peruvian rice and bean balls). We accompanied our meal with reasonably priced wines by the glass. We saved a little room for dessert so shared a Mil Hojas (thousand leaves), a pastry with mango cream.

The Mission is a great part of San Francisco to visit. You can see interesting stores and lots of murals. So head out this way and stop by Limón Rotisserie for lunch. You'll find it at the corner of 21st Street and South Van Ness Avenue. If you want to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a visit to the Mission District and lunch at Limón Rotisserie, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

A Walk for Shoppers

One of the favorite pastimes of visitors to San Francisco is shopping. Here's a walking route that combines two of the City's premier shopping districts, a breathtaking view, a house made famous by a Robin Williams movie, a bit of a workout, and a chance to lunch at a tasty, neighborhood restaurant.

Start your walk at the corner of Geary Blvd. and Fillmore Street. You can get here from Union Square by taxi or by taking the 38 Geary bus on Market Street. Before you start your walk, note the Fillmore Auditorium on the southwest corner of the intersection. The Grateful Dead, Janis Joplin, Jefferson Airplane, and other greats of rock and roll played here during the venue's heyday in the late 1960s. On the northwest corner, you'll see the Boom Boom Room, once owned by the famed bluesman John Lee Hooker. On the northeast corner are the Sundance Cinemas and Japan Center, which is home to Japanese stores and restaurants, as well as Kabuki Springs and Spa, where you can get a massage.

Now begin your walk by heading up the hill on Fillmore Street. You'll pass many boutiques, coffee houses, and restaurants. You can see a good listing on www.fillmoreshop.com. If you want to have lunch while strolling along Fillmore, try Pizzeria Delfina at 2406 California Street for great, thin-crust pizza. It's my favorite pizza in San Francisco.

The shopping district on Fillmore Street ends at Jackson Street. Walk two more blocks up Fillmore to Broadway for a great view of the Bay. Turn left on Broadway and walk down the hill to Steiner Street. On the southeast corner of Steiner and Broadway is Mrs. Doubtfire's house. This is the home where Robin Williams and Sally Fields lived in the film, "Mrs. Doubtfire."

Then turn right on Steiner and walk three blocks. You'll now be at the corner of Steiner and Union Streets and at the western end of the Union Street shopping district. Rose's Cafe on the northeast corner has good sandwiches, paninis, salads, and pizzas, and is a good lunch spot. Turn right on Union and you can begin strolling among more upscale shops, restaurants, and cafes. A good listing of shops is available at www.unionstreetshop.com. The commercial district ends at Union and Gough, where you will see the Octagon House on the southwest corner. This museum was formerly a home with eight sides. To return to the Union Square area, hop the 45 Union-Stockton bus.

Don't try doing this walk in reverse as you will find yourself walking up a very steep section of Fillmore or Steiner Street. If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes visits to Fillmore and Union Streets, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or at Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

The Inner Mission - Shopping

While you're strolling through the Inner Mission, you'll pass a number of interesting shops. My favorite is 826 Valencia, which claims to be "San Francisco's only independent pirate supply store." After all, who wants to shop at a chain pirate store. Actually, the pirate store is part of a program to help children improve their writing and to encourage teachers to get children excited about writing.

Next door to 826 Valencia is Paxton Gate, an interesting garden store. Just up the street at 766 Valencia is the newer Paxton Gate's Curiosities for Kids.

Independently owned bookshops are an increasing rarity. However, three call Valencia Street home: Borderlands Books at 866, which specializes in science fiction, horror, and fantasy books; Modern Times, a progressive bookstore, at 888, and Dog Eared Books, an eclectic bookstore that reflects the neighborhood, at 900. In addition, Adobe Books, which sells both new and used books is nearby at 3166 16th Street,.

Good Vibrations, the legendary sex toy store, is at 603 Valencia Street.

The area is home to a good number of art galleries. One of my favorites is the City Art Gallery at 828 Valencia.

There are many other interesting shops to stroll in and out of. So take BART to the 16th Street Station. Walk west on 16th Street, south on Guerrero, east on 18th Street, and then north on Valencia Street. You can also walk further west to Dolores Street if you want to visit Mission Dolores or Dolores Park. You can easily spend a half day, if not a full day, wondering around the Inner Mission.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to the Inner Mission, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

The Inner Mission - Food

I recently wrote about some of the sights in the Inner Mission, one of San Francisco's vibrant neighborhoods. If you're a foody, you'll certainly want to head to the Inner Mission to sample some great food.

You could spend your entire visit eating on the block of 18th Street between Guerrero and Dolores Streets where you'll find Delfina Restaurant, Delfina Pizzeria, Bi-Rite Market, Bi-Rite Creamery, and Tartine Bakery. Delfina Restaurant is one of the best Italian restaurants in San Francisco. The Pizzeria has terrific, thin-crust pizza. Unfortunately, there's almost always a wait to get into the Pizzeria. Bi-Rite Market is home to more gourmet food products per square foot than just about anyplace on earth. The Creamery makes small lots of oh-so-tasty ice cream. Tartine produces some of San Francisco's best pastries. Here too, there is usually a line, and seating is limited.

Range is a small restaurant on Valencia Street producing some of the city's best American food. Little Star Pizza is another great spot for thin-crust pizza. Want to watch on old flick with your dinner? If so, visit Foreign Cinema on Mission Street. Never enjoyed south Indian cuisine? Try Dosa. The neighborhood is full of Taquerias and other small, ethnic places featuring food from Mexico, Central America, India and Pakistan, Thailand, Vietnam, Ethiopia, and China. Lastly, there's a coffee shop every 100 yards. For a local roast, try Ritual Coffee Roasters at 1026 Valencia Street.

If you'd like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to the Inner Mission, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or at Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

The Inner Mission - Sights

The Inner Mission is one of my favorite neighborhoods in San Francisco but is frequently overlooked by visitors. Perhaps the urban grit is a bit too much for some folks. I think a walk through the neighborhood gives you a good feel for daily life for many city residents. Plus there are interesting sights, fun shops, and excellent restaurants.

Where is the Inner Mission? San Franciscans frequently argue over neighborhood boundaries and, more recently, their names. For the purpose of this series of postings, I'll consider the Inner Mission to be the area bounded by Market Street on the north, Church Street on the west, 24th Street on the south, and South Van Ness on the east.

The principal sight in the area is Mission Dolores (aka Mission San Francisco de Asis). This is one of the 21 missions established by the Spanish in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The mission was constructed in 1791 and is the oldest building in San Francisco. You can take a self-guided tour through the old mission. Mission Dolores charges $5/adult and $3/child and senior to enter. Visitors are welcome from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. from May 1 to October 31 and to 4:00 p.m. during the balance of the year.

The original mission was built on the shore of Lago de los Dolores. Both the building and the lake are long gone, but a plaque marks the spot on Albion Street, near the intersection with Camp Street, about 1 1/2 blocks from the current mission.

The Mission District is home to hundreds of murals. The most famous may be MaestraPeace on the Women's Building at 3543 18th Street. The mural was painted in 1994 by a group of women and covers two sides of the building. A number of famous and not-so-famous women are depicted. A guide to the mural is available inside the Women's Building.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to the Inner Mission, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Northern California: An Explorer's Guide

This new guidebook, written by San Francisco resident, Michele Bigley, was just released on June 1. It's a great resource for travel in San Francisco, the Bay Area, and all of Northern California - from Big Sur to the Oregon border.

Here's what Michele had to say about Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel, "A wealth of knowledge, Rick takes folks on customized tours of the Bay Area, Wine Country, Central Coast, Mendocino, and even the Sierra Foothills. You tell him what you want and he'll create the ideal trip. He knows more about wine and food than most."

Many thanks to Michelle for the nice review. If you're planning a trip to San Francisco, you can pick up "Northern California: An Explorer's Guide" at most good bookstores.

If you'd like to take a tour with a guide who "possesses a wealth of knowledge," please phone me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me at Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park

A short walk west of the Music Concourse in Golden Gate Park lies Stow Lake. Here families can partake in an array of outdoor activities. The easiest and least expensive is to take a walk around the lake or to the top of Strawberry Hill. During the approximately mile-long walk around the lake, you are likely to see ducks and other birds as well as turtles. If you walk to the top of 430-foot tall Strawberry Hill in the middle of the lake, you'll pass by a lovely man-made waterfall and be rewarded with a nice view of the park as well as the Sunset and Richmond Districts at the summit.

If you want to spend some time on the water and get an up-close look at the birds and turtles, you can rent paddle boats and row boats at the Stow Lake Boathouse. Rentals are available from 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. on most nice days. You can check to make sure the boathouse is open and by phoning (415) 752-0347.

If you want a little more exercise, bicycles and peddle-powered carriages are available for rental at the boathouse. On Saturdays during the summer and on Sundays year-round, the section of JFK Drive closest to the lake is closed to cars making it a nice place for a leisurely bike ride.

Need a quick refresher? The Stow Lake Boathouse sells ice cream, sodas, and other snacks. The food's not gourmet but tastes good after a hike or boat ride.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a stop at Stow Lake, please feel free to contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (866) 326-4237 or Rick@BlueHeronTours.com.

Another Summer of Art in San Francisco

This summer two major art exhibitions will arrive in San Francisco. The first to open is "Georgia O'Keefe and Ansel Adams: Natural Affinities" at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Adams, a San Francisco native, befriended O'Keefe in 1929 and became lifelong friends. This show includes over 100 of their works depicting the natural world. The show opens on May 30 and closes September 7. Past shows by these two icons of American art have been very popular, so I suggest purchasing tickets in advance. SFMOMA is open Friday - Tuesday from 11:00 a.m. - 5:45 p..m. The museum is open from 11:00 a.m. - 8:45 p.m on Thursday and closed on Wednesday.

The second, and even bigger, show will be "Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs" at the de Young Museum. When Tutankhamun works were last shown 30 years ago, the exhibition was an overwhelming success. Again, buy your tickets in advance to ensure that you'll be able to visit. The show opens on June 27. The exhibition will be open daily from 9:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. through September 30. From October 1, 2009 through March 28, 2010, the De Young will revert to its usual hours of 9:00 a.m. - 6:30 p.m. on Tuesdays through Sundays. On Fridays, the museum will close later at 8:45 p.m.

If you're visiting San Francisco this summer, days can be chilly so enjoy the indoors by visiting one or both of these blockbuster exhibits.

Italian Food in North Beach & Pacific Heights

In my last post, I talked about the problem finding really good Italian food in North Beach. After my dining experiences over the last week, I feel even more strongly that the best, most innovative Italian food is not in North Beach.

We had dinner at Ristorante Ideale in North Beach, a restaurant we enjoyed many years ago but never returned to over the intervening years. I saw that it was still getting pretty good reviews, so we decided to give it a try again. The experience was quintessential North Beach -- mediocre service and food. When I asked the waiter about a wine on the list, he was clearly unfamiliar with the wines or unwilling to spend time talking with me. He just said that the wine I asked him about was good. This inattentiveness to service was matched when we ordered an appetizer of pear wrapped in prosciutto and marscapone. When the food arrived, the pear was a rock and had no taste. When we complained, the waiter said that the shipment of pears they received that day needed more time to ripen. We wondered why they just didn't tell us that the dish was not available. To their credit, they did not charge us for the appetizer.

The other extreme was SPQR on Fillmore Street in Pacific Heights. The menu is always interesting, but this month the restaurant is featuring wine and food from Calabria. Having never heard of the region, much less having tried the food, I was intrigued. We had wines from Calabria featuring varietals that were new to me. We had one of their regular antipastis -- fried brussels sprouts, which were a perfect combination of sweet, salty, and garlic flavors and a crispy texture. My main dish was from Calabria -- fettuccine with sardines, bread crumbs, and currants. An unusual combination, but it worked. My wife's strata of asparagus, pancetta, and bread was scrumptious.

These two restaurants present a perfect contrast -- a restaurant that tries and one that doesn't. It's no wonder that more visitors than locals frequent North Beach.

Dining in North Beach

North Beach is the old Italian section of San Francisco. Although the community is diverse today, North Beach is still home to many Italian restaurants and cafes. Strolling along Grant and Columbus Avenues is a fun way to spend a couple of hours. Lunching outside on a sunny day is a great San Francisco experience.

Many of my guests ask what are the best Italian restaurants in North Beach. I usually respond by saying that most of the restaurants in North Beach feature the traditional red sauce and pasta cuisine; that San Francisco's best Italian restaurants are not in North Beach. Of Zagat's top five rated Italian restaurants, none are in North Beach. None of the San Francisco Chronicle's top 20 rated Italian restaurants are in North Beach.

Nevertheless, visitors should spend some time in North Beach. For lunch, I usually take guests to Caffe Delucchi, at the corner of Columbus, Grant, and Green. Their paninis and salads are quite good. While I haven't had the pizzas and pastas, my guests have enjoyed them. Add some red wine and, if the sun is out, sit at one of the outside tables and watch the locals and tourists go by on Columbus Avenue.

Last weekend I dined at a relatively new restaurant in North Beach, Vicoletto. The staff was among the friendliest I've ever encountered. We were sold when we saw Burata on the appetizer menu. Both my wife and I are big fans of this very fresh, gooey cheese. We shared the cheese and a delicious eggplant and ground beef appetizer with friends. All of us enjoyed our main courses of pork rolled in parsley, braised short ribs, and pasta. Our tiramisu and pear tart were also quite yummy. The wine list includes many reasonably priced Italian wines. Our waiter, who previously sold wine, knew the list well. The only drawback, and this is a frequent complaint of mine, was the noise level. Vicoletto is at 550 Green Street. Reservations may be made by phoning 433-5800.

I also enjoy Trattoria Contadina, at the corner of Mason and Union Streets, for traditional red sauce and pasta fare. The restaurant is old school but what they do, they do well.

I would be remiss if I did not mention Albona, a restaurant on the border of North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf that features food from Istria. This peninsula was part of Italy prior to World War I and is now part of Croatia. While the food is heavily influenced by Italian cooking, it also has influences from Slovenia and Croatia. The cuisine is probably unlike any you have eaten, but is delicious. If you are an adventurous eater, I highly recommend Albona.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to North Beach, contact Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel at (415) 337-1874 (toll free) or by clicking here.

Andy Goldsworthy in San Francisco

Environmental artist Andy Goldsworthy frequently makes works that are ephemoral; that disappear with time. However, San Francisco is home to two permanent installations.

The first work, Drawn Stone, was commissioned by the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco in 2003 for the entry to the new de Young Museum. Installed in 2005, the work features a continuous crack that represents the meeting of the North American and Pacific Plates near San Francisco. This faultline is what ruptured in 1906 resulting in the Great Earthquake and Fire. Nearby are large stone slabs where visitors can sit to contemplate the installation.

The second work, Spire, was installed in the Presidio last year. The work is a tower comprised of 35 cypress trees that were removed as part of the replanting of the Presidio's historic forest. Spire is located near the Arguello Gate and the Inspiration Point Overlook. A special exhibit on Goldsworthy's work at the Presidio is located at 49 Moraga Avenue (next to the Officers' Club). Goldsworthy at the Presidio is open Wednesday to Sunday, from 11:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. through May 3.

There is yet another Goldsworthy piece on the campus of Stanford University in Palo Alto. Stone River was completed in 2001 and is located southeast of the Cantor Art Center, near the corner of Museum Way and Lomita Drive. The flowing wall is made with stones from buildings that were destroyed in the 1906 and 1989 earthquakes and is the largest sculpture on the campus.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco and/or Palo Alto that includes these works by Andy Goldsworthy, please phone me at (866) 326-8237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Civil War Era Fort Point

When I have children on a San Francisco tour, I frequently include a stop at Fort Point. Built from 1853 - 1861, the fort was designed to protect San Francisco Bay from enemy attack. Fortunately, the cannon never needed to fire against enemies, only for testing. We are also fortunate that the builders of the Golden Gate Bridge decided to save the fort from demolition in the 1930s.

Visitors to Fort Point can learn much about the history of San Francisco and the role of the Army in the city's life. Children enjoy looking at the cannons and climbing to the top of the fort for views of the Golden Gate. Adults may find the various exhibits of more interest. Docents dressed in Civil War uniforms are frequently present to answer questions about the fort. In addition, a number of activities are scheduled each day. The cannon-loading demonstration is particularly interesting.

Fort Point is open Friday - Sunday from 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Even if you are visiting on a day when the fort is closed, a drive down Long Avenue and Marine Drive provides great views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay. You may also see surfers testing their skills under the bridge. If you are very lucky, you could see dolphin in the Bay. Twice in 30 years, I have seen dolphin and both times I saw them from the parking lot adjacent to Fort Point. I frequently bring guests to Fort Point on foggy days as the view of the Golden Gate Bridge is better than from the vista point above.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to Fort Point, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Mosaics and a View

Standing at the top of Grandview Park I had a 360-degree view of the Pacific Ocean, the Golden Gate, San Francisco Bay, Golden Gate Park, the Sunset District, and downtown San Francisco. I climbed quite a bit to get here as the park sits on the top of a hill that rises to 820 feet above sea level, but the view was worth it.

Grandview Park is not convenient for most visitors as it is located in the Golden Gate Heights neighborhood on the west side of San Francisco. However, if you are staying near Union Square, take the N Judah streetcar at one of the MUNI Metro stations on Market Street. Make sure you get a transfer and exit the train at 9th and Judah. Transfer to the 66 Quintara bus and travel to 16th and Moraga. You can also continue on the N Judah to 16th Ave. and walk three blocks south to Moraga.

When you get off the bus, look east and you will see a long stairway covered with mosaics climbing the hill. More than 220 local residents donated funds that resulted in the mosaic of the ocean, moon, and sun. As you climb the steps, look closely and you'll find the names of the contributors who made the steps possible. Be sure to turn around and admire the ocean view.

When you get to the top of the steps, you'll be at 15th Avenue. Look to the right and you'll see a small set of steps that connect lower and upper 15th. When you get to the top of this stairway, you'll see a long flight of wooden steps that will take you to the top of the hill. Enjoy the view as you wander through the small park.

If you want to grab a bite to eat during your outing, there are many small, inexpensive restaurants along Irving Street and on 9th Avenue between Lincoln and Judah. You'll find Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, American, Ethiopian, seafood, Greek, and other restaurants.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to Grandview Park and the mosaic-covered stairway, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here.

Excellent Breakfast in North Beach

For nearly 50 years Mama's on Washington Square has been serving breakfast and lunch in North Beach. During the peak tourist season and on sunny, weekend days, a long line of hungry patrons stretches down Stockton Street.

To avoid the lines, visit Mama's on a weekday during the late fall or winter. That's exactly what I did earlier this week. I hadn't been to Mama's for over five years, so I figured it was time to see if the restaurant was as good as I remembered it. It was!

Mama's serves an array of egg dishes, a variety of freshly made French Toasts, and homemade baked goods. We had a chance to taste an omelette, corned beef hash, and a piece of coffee cake. All were excellent.

If you want a good breakfast with fresh ingredients, you won't find a better one than at Mama's. If you're visiting during the height of the tourist season, the trick to avoiding a long wait is to arrive right when Mama's opens at 8:00 a.m. Mama's stays open until 3:00 p.m. everyday except Monday, when it is closed. Mama's is located at 1701 Stockton Street, on the corner of Filbert.

Christmas Day in San Francisco

Visitors to San Francisco during the holiday season often wonder what to do on Christmas Day. Many attractions are closed, but there's still much to do if you're not unwrapping presents with your family.

Walk across the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco's number 1 tourist attraction. The walkway is open from sunrise to sunset.

See Lombard Street, the "Crookedest Street in the World." Visitors flock to Lombard Street to see its gardens and curves. Don't forget that two blocks away is the steepest street in San Francisco - Filbert Street.

Explore Muir Woods, where you can see the Coastal Redwoods - the tallest trees in the world. The park is located about 40 minutes north of San Francisco, across the Golden Gate Bridge.

Visit The Contemporary Jewish Museum, one of San Francisco's newest museums. Current exhibits include "Warhol's Jews: Ten Portraits Reconsidered" and "In the Beginning: Artists Respond to Genesis." The museum will be open from 11:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. on Christmas Day.

Ride the cable cars. Travel over Nob Hill on America's first moving National Historic Landmark.

Eat. Many restaurants are open on Christmas Day, including a good number in Chinatown.

Take in a movie. Most movie theaters open around noon. If you are planning to go late in the afternoon or early in the evening, be prepared for crowds.

As you can see, there are a number of things to do on Christmas Day. So there's no need to spend the day in your hotel room.

Happy Holidays from Rick at Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel.

Garden Lovers' San Francisco

Garden lovers will definitely want to visit Golden Gate Park. This man-made park shows how dedicated gardeners can transform the landscape. In addition to enjoying the full park, gardeners will want to visit three sights that are within easy walks of each other: the Japanese Tea Garden, Botanical Garden and Arboretum, and Conservatory of Flowers.

The Japanese Tea Garden was founded in 1894 as part of San Francisco's Midwinter Fair and is the oldest public Japanese garden in the United States. Visitors will enjoy a leisurely stroll through the garden. If you visit at the right time in the spring, you will see the cherry trees in bloom. You can also stop at the tea house for green tea, Japanese crackers, and fortune cookies. The Tea Garden opens at 9:00 a.m. and closes at 5:00 p.m. from November to February and at 6:00 p.m. during the balance of the year. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for seniors age 65 and over and youth between the ages of 12 and 17, and $1.50 for children between the ages of 5 and 11. Children under the age of 5 may enter for free.

The San Francisco Botanical Garden at Strybing Arboretum is just across Martin Luther King Drive from the Japanese Tea Garden. The 55 acres of gardens feature plants from Mediterranean climates, mild-temperate climates, cloud forests, elsewhere. The Botanical Gardens are open daily and there is no charge for enjoying a walk among the diverse plants and flowers.

The Conservatory of Flowers is a ten-minute walk from the Japanese Tea Garden. This Victorian greenhouse opened in 1879 and is now North America's oldest public conservatory. The Conservatory closed in 1995 after suffering major damage during a severe windstorm. After extensive renovation, the Conservatory reopened in 2003. Today, the conservatory houses over 2,000 plants in its permanent collection. Special exhibits are displayed throughout the year. The Conservatory is open Tuesday - Sunday from 9:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. The last admission is at 4:30 p.m. Admission fees are the same as for the Japanese Tea Garden.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a visit to one or more of these gardens, please phone me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Fortune Cookies in San Francisco

There has been quite a bit of controversy over the origins of fortune cookies. Thanks to the research of Jennifer 8. Lee in her book "Fortune Cookie Chronicles," it appears that these cookies are Japanese in origin.

Most accounts say the cookies were introduced to America at the Japanese Tea Garden in Golden Gate Park. Dates vary from 1894, when the Tea Garden opened during the Midwinter Fair, to the first or second decade of the 20th century. A few accounts say they originated in Los Angeles. However, this cannot be true since fortune cookies are tasty and nothing good comes from Southern California!

While most fortune cookies are made by machine, you can see them made by hand at the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory at 56 Ross Alley in San Francisco's Chinatown. Since 1962, fortunes have been hand packed into the cookies as soon as they come out of the oven. There is no charge to enter the factory and you are likely to be offered a free sample. There is a charge to take photos, but a better deal is to just buy some cookies!

The factory is open from 9:00 a.m. until the last tourists go home in the evening. Ross Alley runs between Washington and Jackson Streets, just east of Stockton Street.

If you would like to take a private tour of San Francisco that includes a visit to the Fortune Cookie Factory, please phone me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here.

Land's End Trail Update

In the second edition of "Rick's Tips," Blue Heron's free newsletter of fun things to do in the Bay Area, I wrote about the Coastal Trail at Land's End. This beautiful walk takes you from Sea Cliff and the Legion of Honor to the Pacific Ocean near Cliff House.

If you've not done this walk recently, there are many improvements along the way. Most recently, a large parking lot was opened at the west end of the trail, just above Cliff House. Now there are plenty of spots for cars and buses to park so visitors can enjoy the trail, walk among the ruins of Sutro Bath, or eat at Cliff House or Louis' Restaurant.

The trail is much better signed now, both with directional arrows and waysides that help interpret the area. You'll be able to learn more about the streetcar and train that previously ran along Land's End, the Native Americans that lived here, and the many ships that wrecked outside the Golden Gate.

There are also improved seating areas for walkers to rest and gaze out over the Pacific.

If you haven't visited Land's End, I highly recommend the walk I called "the most beautiful urban walk in America." If you haven't walked the trail recently, it's time for a return visit.

If you would like to take a private, custom tour that includes Land's End, Sea Cliff, and/or the Legion of Honor, please phone me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Best Restaurants in San Francisco - 2008/2009

Over a year ago, I summarized the critics' picks of the best restaurants in San Francisco. With the release of the "2009 Zagat Guide" and the 2009 Michelin guide, I'll update the listings.

According to Zagat, the five most popular restaurants in the Bay Area are Gary Danko, Boulevard, The Slanted Door, The French Laundry (Yountville), and Michael Mina. The restaurants with the best food are The French Laundry (Yountville) and Cyrus (Healdsburg) with 29 points, and Gary Danko, Kaygetsu (Menlo Park), Quince, La Foret (San Jose), The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, and Sushi Ran (Sausalito) with 28 points.

The San Francisco Chronicle awards its highest rating, four stars, to eight restaurants: Chez Panisse (Berkeley), Coi, Cyrus (Healdsburg), French Laundry (Yountville), La Folie, Manresa (Los Gatos), Michael Mina, and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton.

"Michelin San Francisco, Bay Area and Wine Country 2009" gives its highest rating of three stars to only one restaurant: The French Laundry in Yountville. The guide awards two stars to six restaurants: Aqua, Coi, Cyrus (Healdsburg), Manresa (Los Gatos), Meadowood (St. Helena), and Michael Mina.

As you can see the critics disagree more than they agree. The only restaurants near the top of all three lists are Cyrus, The French Laundry, and Michael Mina. Having eaten at all three, I wouldn't disagree.

(revised 10/16/2008)

California Academy of Sciences

On September 27, the new California Academy of Sciences opens to the public. Last week, I had a chance to preview one of the oldest science museums in the United States. Not all of exhibits were finished, but I got a good sense of the place.

The Academy continues to house an aquarium, planetarium, and natural history museum. I think the aquarium exhibits work best, including the Philippine Coral Reef, Water Planet, and Northern California Coast. These displays are the nicest to look at and contain much information.

The Planetarium was not showing one of its regular exhibits, so I can not critique this part of the Critique.

The Amazonian Flooded Rainforest will enable visitors to walk through the various levels of a tropical rainforest. It looks like a fun exhibit, but was not open for the preview.

The most disappointing exhibit continues to be the African Hall. While supposedly loved by San Franciscans in the old Academy building, it continues to look antiquated to me. Seeing stuffed animals amidst painted dioramas is neither educational nor informative. The dozen or so penguins trapped in their small water tank and fake rocks seem like an old-fashioned zoo exhibit that is neither kind to the animals or particularly informative for the visitor.

The roof of the Academy building has domes covered with native California plants. Visitors can access the roof for a close look at the plants and a nice view of the Music Concourse in Golden Gate Park.

While I must confess that science museums are not my favorite, I was disappointed in the new Academy. Yes, it's a great piece of eye candy. However, I think they spread themselves too thin by housing three disparate attractions. Depth is lacking, particularly in the natural history part of the museum. Even the aquarium, which is pretty good, pales in comparison to the outstanding Monterey Bay Aquarium. For the millions that were spent, I think a better museum could have been created.

I suspect, though, that the Academy will be a hit, particularly for families. However, a visit is not cheap. Tickets cost $24.95 for adults, $19.95 for seniors (ages 65 and over) and youths (ages 12 - 17), and $14.95 for children ages 7 - 11. Children under 7 years of age can enter for free. Admission is free on the third Wednesday of every month and weekends for San Franciscans who live in selected Zip codes. The Academy is open daily except Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Two Chinatown Temples

Many visitors to Chinatown overlook some of the most fascinating sights -- the temples. Chinatown is home to a many Buddhist, Confucian, and Taoist temples. Most welcome visitors; although, there may not be English speakers on staff to interpret what you are seeing.

Two that I frequently take visitors to see are Tien Hau Temple at 125 Waverly Place and Matsu Temple at 30 Beckett Street. They both honor and take their names from the same Goddess of the Sea; however, Matsu is Buddhist and Tien Hau is Taoist. Matsu is the more accessible of the two as it is on the first floor. Tien Hau is more ornate and visually interesting, but is on the fourth floor of a building with no elevator. There is seldom anyone who speaks English at Matsu. When Sally is at Tien Hau, she is happy to give you a quick explanation of the temple and its decor.

Both temples have handouts in English that tell about the life of Matsu/Tien Hau. You can also have your fortune told at both temples. It's a complicated process so you may need to ask for help.

You also can take a walking tour of Chinatown that will include a visit to one of the neighborhood's temples. I highly recommend All about Chinatown Walking Tours. Linda Lee, the owner, has been leading tours for more than 25 years. If you'd like to visit one of Chinatown's temples as part of a private tour of San Francisco, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here.

Great Jazz Spot in San Francisco

After World War II, San Francisco had a vibrant jazz scene centered along Fillmore Street in the Western Addition. This all came to an end in the 1960s when the San Francisco Redevelopment Agency destroyed the neighborhood in the name of progress. Victorian homes were torn down and families displaced.

It took a long time for the neighborhood to come back. In recent years new condominiums and commercial spaces were built along the section of Fillmore Street just south of Japantown. To help reignite the old spirit, the Redevelopment Agency asked Yoshi's, the venerable Oakland Jazz Club, to open a club in what is now being called the Fillmore Jazz Preservation District.

In August, I had a chance to dine at Yoshi's restaurant and to take in three concerts at the club. I highly recommend both to visitors and locals. The restaurant has excellent Japanese-inspired cuisine. The staff knows that many diners will be taking in a show at the club and paces the service accordingly.

The club provides an intimate setting to hear nationally and internationally known acts. Yoshi's features a wide array of music including Jazz, funk, African music, and vocalists. Sushi, sashimi, and other Japanese appetizers can be munched on while you enjoy the show. Tickets may be purchased on the Yoshi's website. All seats are reserved. There's not a bad seat in the house.

Lombard Street - The Crookedest Street in the World

The block of Lombard Street, between Hyde and Leavenworth Streets, is one of San Francisco's premier tourist attractions. During the busy summer season, parades of visitors flock to Lombard Street to see its eight cures, hydrangeas, and bougainvillea.

Many people visit Lombard Street by car. On busy weekend days, there can be a one- or two-block long line of cars waiting on Lombard Street, west of the crooked section, for the opportunity to experience this only-in-San Francisco attraction. Here's an easy tip to avoid the lengthy wait. Ascend Russian Hill via Union Street. Turn north (toward the bay) on Hyde Street. Drive three blocks to Lombard Street and turn right to start your descent. There is almost never a wait in this direction. Approaching Lombard Street from this direction can easily save you up to 20 minutes of waiting in your car.

If you don't have a car, the Powell-Hyde cable car stops at the corner of Lombard and Hyde Streets, right at the top of the curvy part of Lombard. The Powell-Mason cable car stops at the corner of Lombard Street and Columbus Avenue, a short walk from the bottom of the crooked section.

None of the scheduled tour operators can take you within three blocks of Lombard Street, so take a tour of San Francisco with Blue Heron Custom Tours and Travel. We'll take you down the Crookedest Street in the World as well as the steepest street in San Francisco -- Filbert Street, between Hyde and Leavenworth, a 31.5 degree angle. To book a private tour of San Francisco, call (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Tips for Riding San Francisco's Cable Cars

San Francisco's cable cars are one of the city's signature attractions. Invented in 1873, cable cars have traveled up and down San Francisco's hills ever since, except for two years in the 1980s when the system was closed for repairs.

Three lines remain in San Francisco: Powell-Hyde, Powell-Mason, and California Street. Tourists flock to ride the cable cars resulting in hour-long waits at the cable car turnarounds. Here are some tips to help you avoid the long waits:

Ride the California Street line. If you just want to ride a cable car and don't care about the views or don't need to go to either Union Square or Fisherman's Wharf, ride the California Street line. There are almost never lines to board the cars at the ends of the line at California Street & Van Ness Avenue and California & Market Streets. Many visitors find themselves at the foot of Market Street, near the Ferry Building, so can easily get to the Market Street end of the California Street line. If you want to go to Fisherman's Wharf or Union Square from this end, take the California Street Line to Powell Street and transfer to one of the two Powell Street lines. You will have to pay the $5 fee on both cars unless you buy a Muni Pass ($11/one day, $18/three days, $24/three days).

Ride the Powell Street lines before 9:00 a.m. or after 8:00 p.m. The Powell-Hyde line runs from Powell and Market Streets to Aquatic Park, near the Cannery and Ghirardelli Square. This is the most popular line as it passes by the top of "The Crookedest Street in the World," Lombard Street. Long waits are not uncommon at the ends of the line. By traveling early in the day or in the evening, you may avoid a long wait.

The Powell-Mason line travels from Powell and Market Streets to Taylor and Bay Streets, near Fisherman's Wharf. This line too has long waits, so try to ride the car in the early morning or evening.

Take the Powell-Mason line from Fisherman's Wharf to Union Square. If you want to travel from Fisherman's Wharf back to Union Square, the wait for the Powell-Mason cable car at Taylor and Bay Streets is usually shorter than the wait for the Powell-Hyde cable car at Aquatic Park.

Board the Powell Street lines away from the ends of the lines. There is frequently a long wait to board the cable cars at Powell and Market Streets. Sometimes you can squeeze on the cars by just walking a few blocks up Powell Street. The further you get away from the ends of the lines, the easier it is to squeeze on a car. Many riders disembark at California and Powell Streets, Hyde and Lombard Streets (Crooked Street), and the Cable Car Museum at Washington and Mason Streets, so these are good spots to board a cable car.

I hope this information helps you to enjoy your ride on the only cable cars in an American city. If you want to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a ride on a cable car, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Burmese Cuisine in San Francisco

One of the benefits of living in San Francisco is being able to sample food from around the world. While there are a few gaps, some quite major, it seems like we have restaurants featuring the cuisine of nearly every member of the United Nations.

Burma lies between India, Bangladesh, Thailand, and China. Its food tastes like a mixture of the flavors you find in its neighbors' cuisines. A wide assortment of curries are featured on Burmese menus. Many dishes make heavy use of coconut milk. Dried or pickled vegetables are quite common ingredients.

One of my favorite dishes is tea leaf salad, a mixture of preserved tea leaves, dried shrimp, chilies, peanuts, ginger, dried coconut, lime juice, and other spices. The taste is exotic, but one that I love. My wife is a big fan of Burmese curried chicken noodle soup. It's one of her favorite lunch dishes.

San Francisco is home to at least four Burmese restaurants. Two of my favorites are in the Richmond District. Mandalay Restaurant has been serving Burmese and Chinese food in the Inner Richmond District since 1984. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.

Pagan Restaurant is a new restaurant in the Outer Richmond, at the corner of Clement and 33rd Avenue, near the Legion of Honor Museum. Since January, Pagan has been serving Thai and Burmese cuisine for lunch and dinner from Wednesday through Monday; closed on Tuesdays.

Both Pagan and Mandalay are reasonably priced and good places to take children if they like Asian food. The easiest way to get to either restaurant from Fisherman's Wharf or Union Square is by taxi.

If you'd like to sample Burmese cuisine on a full-day tour of San Francisco, please call me at (866) 326-4237 or e-mail me by clicking here to make a reservation.

Ocean View Restaurants in San Francisco

When you are out at the beach in San Francisco dining options are limited, particularly if you want a restaurant with a view. There are only two restaurants with ocean views: the Beach Chalet and the Cliff House.

The Beach Chalet sits at the western end of Golden Gate Park, across The Great Highway from the ocean. The building was designed by a famous local architect, Willis Polk, and opened in 1925. The first floor lobby houses murals and mosaics that were completed in 1936. The Beach Chalet makes its own beers, which are served in both of its restaurants. Upstairs is the Beach Chalet restaurant featuring typical bar food as well as American standards. The Park Chalet sits behind the main building with beautiful views of Golden Gate Park. The menu is the same for lunch and dinner and consists of a variety of small plates and a few other dishes. Weekend lunch and brunch are often crowded, so reservations are recommended at both restaurants. Getting a table on weekdays is easier, but a reservation, particularly at the Beach Chalet restaurant, can't hurt.

The Cliff House sits on a bluff overlooking the Pacific and Seal Rocks. This historic restaurant has undergone many changes throughout its storied history. The third incarnation was renovated a few years ago and is now home to two restaurants: the Bistro and Sutro's. The Bistro is a casual restaurant that offers omelettes, sandwiches, salads, and other casual meals. Reservations are not accepted so expect to wait on nice weekend days. Sutro's is the upscale restaurant at the Cliff House. It's menu has a variety of fish, poultry, and meat dishes. Sutro's accepts reservations, which are highly recommended.

Both the Beach Chalet are Cliff House are great places to lunch during Blue Heron's A Day in the City tour. If you would like to book a private half-day or full-day tour of San Francisco, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Baseball is Back

The baseball season is with us again and our two local teams have begun to play. The Oakland A's are celebrating their 40th season on the west coast while the San Francisco Giants are celebrating their 50th.

The A's were founded in Philadelphia, spent many years in Kansas City, and moved to Oakland in 1968. Whether they will stay in Oakland or move to Fremont, as announced, is anyone's guess.

The Giants and the Dodgers moved west in 1958 from New York and Brooklyn respectively. Here's a good trivia question for baseball fans: of those cities that have never celebrated a World Series victory, which has suffered the longest? The answer - San Francisco. The Giants won in New York but never here. Cubs fans have suffered longer but they did win the Series in 1908.

The prospects for both teams aren't too hot in 2008, but attending a baseball game is a leisurely way to spend a few hours. If you are visiting San Francisco and want to take in a game, both stadiums are easy to get to.

The Oakland Coliseum is a 30-minute subway ride on BART. There are four BART stations along Market Street. Take a train going to Dublin/Pleasanton or Fremont and get off at the Coliseum stop. The stadium is a five-minute walk from the BART station. The weather in Oakland is warmer than in San Francisco, but take a sweater for an evening game.

AT&T Park is a 15-minute walk south of Market Street. You can also catch the N Judah streetcar at one of the MUNI Metro stops along Market Street and get off in front of the stadium. While AT&T Park is advertised as being warmer than the Giants' old home at Candlestick, evening games can be downright cold. You might need a heavy jacket if you sit in the upper deck at night.

I prefer baseball during the day, particularly in the Bay Area. You can enjoy a cold beer during a day game here. At night, you'll probably need a hot coffee. Tickets can be purchased at the teams' websites: www.giants.mlb.com and www.athletics.mlb.com.

Restaurants with a View

There is an old axiom in the restaurant business -- the better the view the worse the food. I alluded to this in my May 2007 "Rick's Tips," when I listed the ten best places to eat outdoors.

Restaurateur Pat Kuleto is bucking this rule with his two new eateries along The Embarcadero: Epic Roasthouse and Waterbar. The restaurants sit aside each other on the bay side of The Embarcadero about a quarter of a mile south of the Ferry Building. Both are beautifully designed and offer fantastic views of San Francisco Bay, the Bay Bridge, and Yerba Buena and Treasure Islands.

Epic Roasthouse features steaks and other hearty meat dishes. Not being my favorite food, I probably won't dine here.

Waterbar, as you can probably tell from the name, is a seafood restaurant. Yesterday my wife and I lunched at Waterbar and both enjoyed our meals immensely. From the lobster salad, which we split to start the meal, to the cheeses with which we finished our meal, everything was good. Waterbar has an extensive oyster bar and my wife tasted one of each of the eight varieties being offered. I dined on superbly prepared scallops served over delicious kale and artisan bacon.

Waterbar has a good wine list with a nice selection of wines by the glass.

Prices are not cheap at either restaurant but, if you want a good meal with a nice water view, Waterbar (and probably Epic Roasthouse) will be as good as it gets in San Francisco.

Good Mexican Food in San Francisco

Having traveled a bit in Mexico, I know that Mexican cuisine consists of more than burritos and tacos. While San Francisco seems to have a taqueria on nearly every corner, finding high-quality Mexican food is tough.

This past weekend I had a chance to revisit Maya Restaurant after many years. There wasn't a burrito to be found on the menu. While we were able to get guacamole and chips, the quality is much higher than found in the taquerias. Entrees were sophisticated and well prepared. Each of us had something different: shrimp, chicken, hanger steak, and braised pork. Each of our meals contained a medley of ingredients and an appetizing presentation. It was nice to see food approaching, if not exceeding, some of the meals I'd had in Oaxaca and Guanajuato.

Maya's location, near the corner of 2nd and Folsom Streets, makes it a convenient place to dine for visitors staying near the Moscone Convention Center. Maya is open for lunch from Monday through Friday and for dinner daily. Reservations can be made by calling (415) 543-2928.

Two North Beach Institutions

It had been over 20 years since I last saw "Beach Blanket Babylon," the only-in-San Francisco cabaret that spoofs modern culture. With my parents visiting, I decided to see how the show was holding up.

Beach Blanket Babylon has been running for over 30 years, so I probably last saw it during its first decade. The theme remains the same; the story of Snow White's efforts to find true love. About one-third of the show looked familiar. However, the majority of songs and skits were new since I last saw the show. The performance was completely up-to-date. There was even a musical number spoofing Hillary Clinton crying the day before the New Hampshire primary.

The singing is still good and the costumes are still zany. The satire is wacky and the hats remain the biggest you'll ever see. At least two of the performers, Val Diamond and Renee Lubin, were in the show when I last saw it. If you've never seen Beach Blanket, then I highly recommend seeing it on your next visit to San Francisco. If you've been before, you'll get a good laugh if you go again.

Beach Blanket Babylon performs at the Club Fugazi, 687 Beach Blanket Babylon Blvd. (Green Street) in North Beach. Shows are at 8:00 p.m. on Wednesday and Thursday and 6:30 and 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Sunday matinées are at 2:00 and 5:00 p.m. and are the only performances that minors may attend.

While in North Beach, I decided to dine at another North Beach institution: North Beach Restaurant. I had never eaten here and figured, after living in San Francisco for 29 years, it was about time to give North Beach Restaurant a try. Walking into this restaurant was like time traveling back to the 1950s. Waiters were in tuxes and the menu looked like it hadn't changed since the restaurant first opened in 1970. While our waiter was very friendly and the food acceptable, I can't recommend dining at the North Beach Restaurant. There are far better Italian restaurants in San Francisco. Unfortunately, most of them are not in North Beach.

If you are planning a trip to San Francisco and want help planning your vacation, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.

Haas-Lillienthal House

San Francisco is well known of its Victorian architecture. There are thousands of Italianate, Stick, and Queen Anne houses that can be seen from the outside, but there is only one home that is regularly open to the public as a museum.

Built in 1886, the Haas-Lillienthal House was a private residence until 1972. Today, the home is a museum, complete with period furnishings. A visit to the Haas-Lillienthal House includes a docent-led tour of the small garden and many of the rooms. You will also learn about the Haas and Lillienthal families who were (and are) prominent in San Francisco's Jewish community.

If you are interested in Victorian architecture and/or history, you will enjoy touring the Haas-Lillienthal House. The museum is open on Sunday, Wednesday, and most Saturday afternoons. More information is available on the museum's website or by calling (415) 441-3000. The museum is located at 2007 Franklin Street (between Washington and Jackson Streets).

Pacific Heights

In September, I wrote about Sea Cliff and mentioned that it and Pacific Heights are probably the two wealthiest neighborhoods in San Francisco. This post will talk about Pacific Heights.

Pacific Heights includes the hilly part of San Francisco from Van Ness Avenue on the east to Lyon Street and the Presidio wall on the west. The north and south boundaries are Green and Bush Streets. Some of San Francisco's wealthiest and most influential residents make their homes in Pacific Heights. Many of them have spectaculr views from their houses. While you may not be in a position to buy a home with such a view, you can approximate the views by walking up the Lyon or Baker Street steps. You'll also get a good workout.

Some of San Francisco's largest homes are in Pacific Heights. Currently, there are two houses on the market in Pacific Heights with asking prices of over $50 million. 2901 Broadway is listed for $55 million, while the owners of 2845 Broadway are asking $65 million. The Spreckels Mansion, at 2080 Washington, is one of the largest homes in San Francisco. Built by Alma and Adolph Spreckels in 1915, its current owner is Danielle Steele.

If you are a movie buff, you can see the house that Sally Fields and Robin Williams called home in "Mrs. Doubtfire" on the southeast corner of Broadway and Steiner Street.

Fillmore Street between Post and Jackson Streets is the main shopping district for Pacific Heights. Along the street you will find many upscale shops and some very good restaurants. You can easily combine a stroll along Fillmore Street with a walk along the Union Street shopping district in Cow Hollow. Just make sure you visit Fillmore Street first so you walk down the steep hill to Union Street.

If you would like to take a private San Francisco tour that includes a visit to Pacific Heights, please call me at (866) 326-4237 (toll free) or e-mail me by clicking here.